The cover photo-and the story
of how it came to my attention-illuminates some of the urgent
and complex
themes woven into this issue's feature package, "Making peace
with the land" (pages 4-12). The photo also highlights an
essential ingredient amidst the complexity.
Last summer, on a flight from my parental home in Kelowna, B.C.,
back to Ontario, I couldn't help but notice the picture on the
lunch box distributed by the flight attendant. The box included
a shot of the Prudence Heward painting, Apple Tree, accompanied
by a poem entitled "Apple Jelly" from no less than Margaret
Atwood.
"No sense in all this picking, peeling and simmering if sheer
food is all you want," wrote Atwood in the opening stanza
of her poem. "You can buy it cheaper...."
For over a year I had been looking for an appropriate art reproduction
by which to remember my father, a retired orchardist, who passed
away in late 1999. Further, my mother's health was beginning to
fail as well, and I suspected already then that the memorial art
would apply to her as well.
When I saw Apple Tree, my search was over. Although painted in
eastern Canada, the piece captured a typical Okanagan Valley scene-a
fruit-laden tree overlooking the valley and distant mountain range.
"We thought we had arrived in heaven," wrote my mother
in her journal as she recalled her first glimpse of Oliver, B.C.,
as a 16 year-old in the spring of 1938-after enduring the rigours
of 1920s immigration from Russia and the depression-era prairies.
I'm sure that for them this painting would evoke nostalgia, as
it does for me. But it evokes a whole lot more. I worked alongside
my parents on the farm long enough to know about the hard work
and the uncertainties, both natural and economic, that sometimes
made "harvest" look quite unlike the fruit-laden branch
in the painting.
Cherry crops were particularly vulnerable to the weather. More
often than I care to remember, a light summer rain followed by
sunshine left the cherries with huge splits. When I once asked
Dad about his keenest farming disappointment, I thought he'd mention
the failed cherry crops. But instead he mentioned the bumper prune
crop which rotted because the fruit marketing board had been unable
to find buyers.
The economic questions were the most troubling. We frequently
shook our heads in amazement at the price of imported fruit in
our local grocery stories. How could they sell fruit cheaper than
what it cost us to grow the same produce just down the road? Further,
why did local retailers import fruit in the first place when their
stores were surrounded by orchards?
It seemed at times that the whole economic system conspired against
the fruit farmer, much like the tourists who stopped at the roadside
and helped themselves-sometimes literally ripped off whole branches-without
apparently realizing that the fruit which they were grabbing cost
something.
So why do farmers persist with all the "picking, peeling
and simmering"-as Margaret Atwood put it? Perhaps it's precisely
because they want more than "sheer food." They intuitively
understand the connection between the food on our table and what
it takes to produce that food. They want that connection to be
understood and appreciated by others as well.
The relationship between food consumer and producer-that's the
focus of the consultation to be held in Saskatoon this July. There
will likely be lots to talk about as grocery shoppers and farmers
compare notes, and try to understand each other's concerns. One
that warrants more than passing attention is the importance of
staying connected to the source of our food.
-Ron Rempel, editor
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